Sulékó*Albho in-situ and Vy Roza in situ reviews

Anastasia Sokolow of Sulékó

Anastasia Sokolow of Sulékó

Perfumer and Creative Director Anastasia Sokolow of Sulékó and I first met in NYC in 2013, when she launched her own brand of seasonally-inspired scents. Drawing upon her Russian origins and Parisian upbringing, Anastasia scrupulously dedicated herself to each detail of the creative process: she collaborated with perfumer Cécile Zarokian and porcelain artists Alain Fichot and Joëlle Fèvre to ensure that exquisite jus was sheathed in sculptural ceramic vessels of finest Limoge’s porcelain. The culturally-based themes of her fragrances and unique presentation were groundbreaking; nothing remotely like it was available on the market. Since then, Anastasia has revamped her entire collection – and her two latest fragrances.

Hold onto Mother Earth – only she never would betray you.” ~ Russian proverb

Sulékó *Albho - in situ and Vy Roza in situ

courtesy of Sulékó

Sulékó*Albho in-situ and Vy Roza in situ premiered at this year’s Esxence. As I was unable to attend, Anastasia contacted me and kindly forwarded me samples. Two years earlier at Esxence, Anastasia had introduced a breath of fresh air with the launch of her Florida Vibrations – a loving homage to the wilder, more jungly aspects of Florida – which is a place of personal respite for her. This was the beginning of a different approach for Sulékó; Anastasia joined forces with perfumer Marie Duchêne. The collection going forth explores her impassioned relationship with the specificity of terroir, culture, and the natural world. Anastasia and I spoke at length recently about her ardor for hiking and the need to renew oneself through kinship with the great outdoors; it’s a sentiment we both share. I perceive her as a conduit through which profound emotion, innate spirituality, and aestheticism conjoin. Yes – her fragrances have Russian names and association with legends and literature – but they also express universal emotions which occur in such varied environments as Mont Blanc and The Valley of Roses in Morocco. This singular cosmopolitan quality marks Sulékó’s scented roster in the best possible manner: naturalism and sophistication go hand in hand.

“Kiss the earth and love it with an unceasing, consuming love.” ~ Fyodor Dostoevsky, The Brothers Karamazov

 

Sulékó *Albho- in situ

We commence with Sulékó *Albho – in situ, Sulékó’s tribute to winter. This name literally translates as “shining white”, and is the root of Lebed, which means swan in Russian. The swan is symbolic of love, grace, fidelity, purity, transformation, and spirituality. Anastasia embarked upon a journey to Mont Blanc which proved revelatory. Its fairytale-like mountains blanketed with snow, frozen lakes, and deeply wooded regions aligned with the mythical swan who was transformed from a solitary, struggling being into beautiful human form. While Anastasia was hiking in Mont Blanc, she felt as though she was living the swan’s story in real time – so moved was she by the sheer vastness and space in which she was enveloped. An overwhelming sense of calm descended, and it then became a matter of how to convey this experience via aromatic materials.

forest in Mont Blanc

photo courtesy of Anastasia Sokolow

The further she ventured, the more varied Mont Blanc’s environment became: dense mixed forests populated by spruce, larch, pine, fir, and cedar; the moist, pristine clarity of waterfalls; the minerality of rock face. Perfumer Marie Duchêne included notes of mint and pepper to augment a defined aquatic feeling – and eucalyptus found its rightful place contributing to *Albho’s pronounced alpine freshness as it moves throughout the fragrance, reappearing as a sort of fragrant leitmotif. The fragrance’s resinous timbre is significant and never weighty, as is the aquatic accord with its limpid finesse. Equipoise is everything, as *Albho artfully demonstrates with its haunting subtlety.

Sulékó *Albho – in situ notes: mint, pepper, mineral notes, eucalyptus, cedarwood, aquatic notes, resins, pine needles

“So, she was called Tatiana.

Even has she her sister’s beauty

Or her rosy-cheeked freshness

Would eyes have been cast in her direction.” ~ excerpt from Alexander Pushkin’s Eugene Onegin

 

Sulékó Vy Rosa in Situ

Sulékó Vy Roza – in situ (“You are the rose”) expresses eternally youthful Spring as seen through the persona of Alexander Pushkin’s heroine, Tatiana, from Eugene Onegin. Tatiana, in the flush of first love – has been likened to the rose (vy roza). She is emblematic of the unselfconscious and open-hearted loveliness of youth and beauty. Through her introduction to passion, Tatiana experiences the intense joy of being fully alive. Once again, the theme of transformation is key: love alters her in ways which she will only later comprehend on a deeper level, as she pens her declaration of love and vulnerability to Onegin. This is where we find her as we follow Anastasia’s trek to the foothills of Morocco’s Valley of Roses, seated beneath the natural wonder which is Mt. Atlas. Anastasia experienced a merging of Tatiana’s narrative with the venerable rosa damascena at this juncture: truth and beauty find their way, regardless of obstacles. As Anastasia explained to me, Mt. Atlas is essentially a rocky desert terrain until the advent of Spring – during which the previously barren Valley of Roses metamorphoses into a lush, fertile oasis where the rosa damascena holds sway. In its desire to bloom and flourish, this rose grows wild as it climbs up fig and almond trees, entwining its branches to a height of up to three meters. Anastasia likens the rose’s abundant perfume to the unsullied, generous love which Tatiana continues to carry in her heart despite her betrayal by Onegin. Both rose and Tatiana maintain their fealty in the face of hardship; their inner and outer comeliness does not falter with the passage of time.

Suleko Vy Roza Moroccan roses

photo courtesy of Anastasia Sokolow

Sulékó Vy Roza is light – and hope-filled, fresh with morning dew. Deft brush strokes of verdant hyacinth and galbanum whisper of the Eternal Return’s verdant allure, heightened by the addition of the multi-faceted geranium which accompanies an extravagant rose presence. And what roses! They are delicate yet bountiful in their impact as they pursue the light of day. Mme. Duchêne does not sacrifice largesse as she portrays rose in all its lavish refinement. Earthy, slightly bitter and sappy as a freshly snapped stem, fig leaf contributes its subtle milkiness, happy to accompany a very tender almond aspect. Vy Roza manifests the pure soul, replete with generosity and joy.

Vy Roza in situ notes: hyacinth, galbanum, rose petals, rosa damascena, geranium, fig leaves, almond

Both Sulékó *Albho – in situ and Vy Roza – in situ are wonderfully versatile and will surely delight most anyone; they don’t demand a special occasion or gender. They possess good sillage and longevity and are suitable for everyday wear. If you prefer a fragrance which intimates, not intrudes – these are well worth sampling.

Samples provided by brand– many thanks! My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Sulékó Perfumes

Thanks to the largesse of Anastasia Sokolow, we have a draw for a Sulékó discovery set  (which includes all three fragrances and a sample of their candle Midi Eternel in spray form) for one registered ÇaFleureBon reader in the EU or USA. YOU MUST REGISTER and leave a comment on this site, sharing what appeals to you about Ida’s reviews. Draw closes 8/10/2026

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We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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