Shalini Parfum GOLD review

Shalini Parfum GOLD

 In youth I sought the golden flower
Hidden in wood or wold,
But I am come to autumn,
When all the leaves are gold. ~ G. K. Chesterton, Gold Leaves

On September 22nd,  in the U.S.A., the day of this post, we find ourselves in the thrall of nascent autumn – a season renowned for its singular, eclectic illumination, a quality of light unlike any other. Its subtle changes do not announce themselves; they insinuate as the edges of greenery leisurely appear gilded and are strewn upon our path. Golden October looms large, the month of the marigold, its signature flower. It is this humble, resilient flowering plant which claims pride of place in Shalini Kumar and master perfumer Maurice Roucel’s ninth fragrant collaboration, Shalini GOLD. If there was a more apt appellation for a parfum, I have yet to unearth it.

Mme. Kumar has long been fascinated by the radiant loveliness of gold, a precious mineral which is quite literally composed of stardust. There exists no gold here on Earth: it is a celestial product which emerged from the violent explosion of the stars, and then sank into the earth’s crust, formed billions of years ago. Translated from the Latin aurum, gold is shining dawn – an homage to its glittering appearance. This precious element has come to represent many attributes over time – one of which being purity, incorruptibility, and permanence, as gold does not rust or tarnish. It has been the domain of royalty, the aristocracy, subject to both legend and spiritual significance. What Shalini and Monsieur Roucel have accomplished is nothing less than olfactory alchemy. In their quest to embody the transcendent trinity of gold, frankincense and myrrh, they have created a fragrant entity which surpasses the sum of its parts.

Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer by Gustav Klimt Neue Galerie

Shalini reveals that she has been deeply influenced by gold in both couture and art: many years ago, she had designed a haute couture collection inspired by Gustav Klimt’s famous Woman In Gold portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer, and it occurred to her that something along that line would make a marvelous parfum. In 2015, Ronald Lauder invited Shalini to the Neue Galerie in New York for the private unveiling of Woman in Gold – an event which provided further inspiration.

9th-century Virgin and Child (Theotokos) mosaic located in the main apse semidome of the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey free use

This is not surprising, as artists have employed goldleaf throughout history – from Byzantine iconography to the Renaissance, Gustave Moreau, Gustav Klimt, and contemporary artists such as Brad Kunkle, Tuesday Riddell, and Gajin Fujita. All this speaks to gold’s universal, timeless appeal.

Icon of the Archangel Michael located in the Treasury of San Marco in Venice, Italy common use

“Gold expresses sunlight, value, divinity even.” – Carl Jung, excerpt from A Process In The Study Of Individuation

In an aromatic tapestry like GOLD, each and every voice is of paramount importance. We commence with the marigold, also known as tagetes: a hardy flowering plant native to the Americas whose varied coloration and circular form mimic the sun. Its name arose from Mary’s Gold, because Christians during the Middle Ages who could not afford to offer gold coin in honor of the Blessed Mother placed these chalorous-hued frilly blossoms upon the altar instead. Their ritual relevance is prominent in Aztec and Mayan ceremonial history and endures today throughout Mexico. Known as flor de muertos (flower of the dead), the marigold’s brilliant colors and potent fragrance were interpreted as a means of guiding the souls of the dead on Día de los Muertos (The Day of the Dead). They illuminated the spirits of the deceased’s path to the cemetery, where loving family placed ofrendas (altars) in anticipation of commemorating their return. Marigolds were brought to India in the 16^th century by Spanish and Portuguese traders, and were soon incorporated into ritual life. They are edible, fragrant, and vivid – all of which assured their inclusion during Diwali, weddings, and other spiritual celebrations. In East Asia, the blooms are associated with wealth, fortune, and longevity; to the Victorians, they represented grief, and were offered to the mourning in an effort to cheer them and ease their suffering. Such a little flower to be imbued with so much meaning!

Tagetes /marigolds

GOLD’s scented components comprise a movable feast. I have always been fascinated by the complexity of tagetes and its many faces. It is profoundly golden, yes – but also vibrantly floral; distinctly herbal/bitter; possessed of a liquorish quality, a density, a variant of olfactory chiaroscuro which encompasses both light and shadow, especially in a less dilute concentration. If joyfulness is endowed with depth, marigold oil/absolute exemplifies this quality. It is further burnished with a Spanish saffron to a glowing ember embellished with leathery and metallic threads. Now is the time to note that saffron, like gold – is a costly and highly valued spice which has been cherished throughout the ages. How intuitive this parfum is, I think: it feels as empirical as it is beautiful.

Shalini parfum Gold Ingredients collage

Frankincense and myrrh complete the precious triad, and this is yet another delight for those among us who venerate the materials. I find that the tendrils of incense are remarkably subtle (while clearly present). My skin picks up the celestial aridity of myrrh and emphasizes it, to my pleasure. Its desert-dryness finds sweet solace in the company of honey – unctuous, floral, tenderly animalic, and redolent of tobacco/hay nuances. Monsieur Roucel’s inclusion of Baltic amber provides a welcome change from other varieties, in that it is denser and the result of northern European pines and conifers. Dry-distilled (and when heated) it yields an impression of ashes, pine, and is faintly smoky. Baltic amber is not widely used in commercial perfumery, but it feels intimate and perceptive in GOLD. If I were to envision a sweeter variety, I might be prone to feeling that the parfum’s composition veered too heavily into a syrupy vein and was less consonant.

Part of the elegance of Shalini Parfum GOLD is the exquisite brevity of its formula: a handful (six, by the brand’s reckoning) of the finest materials comprise its virtuosic majesty. What took the alchemists of yore centuries to ponder (and endless experimentation) was achieved by dint of marigold (tagetes), saffron, myrrh, frankincense, honey, and Baltic amber. Call it magic if you must: the final result is gracious, holy, and enthralling in its serene splendor. It certainly requires more skill to compose with fewer elements. Shalini GOLD, in its succinct luminosity, fulfills our quest for Eldorado.

In sunshine and in shadow,

Had journeyed long,

Singing a song,

In search of Eldorado. ~ Edgar Allan Poe

Notes: marigold, saffron, myrrh, frankincense, honey, Baltic amber

I purchased my initial flacon of GOLD, and then was generously gifted another by Shalini – many thanks! My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Thanks to the enormous generosity of Shalini Kumar,  we have a draw for a 1.7 oz Cubique Glass Bottle with Black Bulb Atomizer of Shalini Parfum GOLD for one registered reader in USA, Canada or EU. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Ida’s review and where you live. Draw closes 9/26/2026

Available online at shaliniparfum.com and stockists worldwide including Aedes Perfumery, Fragrance Vault

Bergdorf Goodman launch, February 2024

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