Providence Perfume Co. Melia Lei review

Providence Perfume Co. Melia Lei courtesy of the brand

  “Flowers are the remnants of paradise on earth.” ~  St. John of Kronstadt

 Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume Co. has released a luxurious tropical fragrance just in time for summer swelter in the Western Hemisphere: Melia Lei. Melia translates as frangipani (aka plumeria) in the Hawaiian language, which is otherwise known as Ōlelo Hawaiʻi – and it is the prima donna of this eau de parfum. The lei is emblematic of Hawaiian hospitality – a garland of fragrant flowers which is offered to visitors and festooned around the neck lovingly when celebrating such momentous occasions as weddings, graduations, and other rituals. Charna never stints when it comes to her botanical aromatic materials, and Melia Lei is no exception. Every component here is indigenous to Hawai’i, which reinforces the faithful-to-nature aspect of Providence Perfume Co. we have come to recognize as her indelible fragrant fingerprint.

Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume Co.

“If there is a heaven for me, I’m sure it has a beach attached to it.” ~ Jimmy Buffett

 To frame Melia Lei merely as a beachy Ban de Soleil perfume is to accord it short shrift. The popular French suntan gelée may have been discontinued in 2019, but fond memories of its creamy, spicy, coconut-y floral charm are still harbored by many. It was more costly than Coppertone (lotion and oil), a widely used U.S. tanning product, but their scent profiles were somewhat similar. The fact is that we associate solar, voluptuous florals accented with coconut as representative of sunbathing (and the beach) in general. The very first beach-themed fragrance was Huile de Chaldée, created as a suntan oil for Jean Patou in 1927; it was followed by Chaldée eau de toilette and parfum, composed by master perfumer Henri Alméras that same year. Melia Lei may share some of the basic bone structure of the above, but it punches things up a notch.

Providence Perfume Co. Melia lei courtesy of the brand

“I went to Maui to stay a week and remained five. I never spent so pleasant a month before, or bade any place goodbye so regretfully.” ~ Mark Twain

Hawai’i in a bottle? Pretty accurate, I’d avow. Melia Lei sings of sultry ylang-ylang and jasmine along with the potent indolic nature of frangipani: they each are heady with unabashed floralcy and a smoldering animalic underbelly. A pop of sprightly pink pepper paves the way to a forgotten paradise. Of course there is coconut – but it’s not a treacly presence, it’s an essential complement which fits like a puzzle piece; the veracity of Melia Lei would smell incomplete without it. I love to imagine Mark Twain – of all people – thoroughly smitten with the Paradise of the Pacific; it goes against every stereotype of him which we entertain. That’s how seductive this fragrance is. As for Charna’s reference to tanning oil, I’m satisfied to leave that to her imagination, and ours. As I’ve often said, when a perfumer is talented and truthful, I am happy to embrace such ambiguities. A little mystery is very welcome in our overexposed world.

Unsplash frangipani by Colin Watts

Melia Lei commences dynamically, all ebullience-on-the-verge-of-decadence; it takes you unawares, shamelessly. Given the other fragrances from Providence Perfume Co. this may surprise you. Fear not – over time the floral divas quieten down and form a talismanic sensuality which eventually murmurs, quite different from its initial declamatory stance. While Melia Lei lingers obligingly on the skin for quite some time, it softens as it does so. In so doing, it resembles a paradisiacal lullaby; all traces of prima donna diminish substantially. Melia Lei is actually perfect for any occasion, season, and gender – but the estival heat really makes it bloom. I highly recommend sampling, dear readers.

Notes: pink pepper, frangipani, jasmine, ylang ylang and tanning oil.

Sample provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Providence Perfume Co. Melia Lei courtesy of the brand

Thanks to the generosity of Charna Ethier, we have a travel-sized bottle of Melia Lei for one registered reader in the USA. To be eligible please leave a comment about what appeals to you in Ida’s review and where you live. Do you have a favorite Providence Perfume Co. fragrance?

Charna Ethier was a 2010 and 2012 Best of Scent Award recipient for best natural perfumer. She also received Michelyn’s Best of Scent award “For the hardest working Perfumer of 2014”. Please enjoy Ida’s 3 you should be wearing to celebrate Providence Perfume Co.’s 15th anniversary here

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