Floris White Rose, Tuberose In Silk and Night Scented Jasmine

Floris London banner via their website

I first became acquainted with the House of Floris in 1972 when I moved to Boston. I kept my sanity by frequenting Harvard Square, which is where I first discovered the original Colonial Drug on Brattle Street. This boutique pharmacy (which had been in Harvard Square for 66 years and has since moved) possessed an enviable inventory of fragrances – both vintage and current day – many with which I was unfamiliar. Floris of London was one of the unknown brands which fascinated me; their perfumes, soaps, talcs, et al were the most natural-smelling, celestial things I had ever smelled, and I bought many of them. I wish that I had stocked up when I had the chance.

Floris London 89 Jermyn Street via website

My favorites were White Rose (1800), Jasmine (1806), Red Rose (1807), Malmaison (1830), Sandalwood (1870), and Rose Geranium (Marilyn Monroe’s favorite, created in 1890). Nothing can remain the same, and naturally those which remained had been significantly altered and reformulated with varying degrees of success. I was disheartened and hoped that at least some of their fragrances would reappear; my friends working in the industry felt similarly.

Floris Family Juan Famenias Floris on the left

There is plentiful advertising for Floris London on social media; I was curious to smell what had become of their perfumes. After all, Floris London carries the distinction of being the oldest independent family-owned perfumery in the world. I purchased a number of samples online, and decided to review three florals: White Rose, Tuberose In Silk, and Night Scented Jasmine.  Let me acquaint you with a bit of their history. In 1730, Juan Famenias Floris emigrated from the Spanish Balearic island of Menorca and established a barbershop and comb-maker business in London’s prestigious St. James’ district. In fact, Floris’ 89 Jermyn Street boutique continues to thrive today in the exact same original building. It wasn’t long before Juan and his wife Elizabeth resolved to create perfume. Over the years, Floris garnered Royal Warrants from King George IV, Queen Elizabeth II, and the former Prince of Wales (now King Charles III). The house’s roster of luminary clients has included Sir Winston Churchill (Special No.127 and Stephanotis), Queen Elizabeth II (White Rose), Marilyn Monroe (Rose Geranium), Florence Nightingale, Mary Shelley (toothbrushes and combs), and Beau Brummel.

Floris London White Rose Michelyn AI

Floris White Rose is the most delicate and romantic of the three we’re exploring, and was first released in 1800. Is it the same as that of 1972? Hardly – but it is exquisite nonetheless, and the spirit of its past glories continues to haunt us. There are those who will eschew White Rose as old-fashioned, but that is pure bias which renders one incapable of appreciating what exists in the present. White rose absolute, by the way – is a rare delight which can be quite spendy: I purchased only 2 mls. for my 60^th birthday years ago, and it set me back $100.00 at the time. It was well worth it; my eyes rolled back in my head in ecstasy. Floris portrayal opens with sparkling aldehydes and green notes, which are promptly followed by the rose/violet duet, a spicy carnation note, quiet iris and slightly indolic jasmine. These traditional florals rest upon a powdery, gently musky base tinged with amber. White Rose is genteel and impossibly tender, and my feeling is that the brand did a fine job of reformulation. It is heady without waxing oppressive, and I love it because it dries down beautifully and is tenacious enough to justify purchasing a bottle. Toss aside your prejudices before you sample this, because you might find it very much to your liking. It will bloom on a warm summer’s eve.  Floris White Rose (2006) Notes: green notes, aldehydes, carnation, rose, violet, iris, jasmine, powdery notes, musk, amber

Floris London Tuberose In Silk AI Michelyn

Floris London Tuberose In Silk initially compelled me by its name: I’m always game for sampling a new tuberose fragrance. This particular flower was not among the original choices offered, so I had no source for comparison; sometimes that’s preferable, because you harbor zero preconceptions. To my pleasure, Tuberose In Silk turned out to be a beauty which encompasses several of the facets one seeks when choosing an animalic perfume. Firstly, Indian tuberose is amplified by the inclusion of additional camphor, which might not feel intuitive to some. Frequently, the flower’s naturally occurring camphoraceous aspect is played down in order to render its highly indolic scent more likable to a wider audience. Tuberose admirers may be split into two camps: those who crave a soft, clean, creamy version – and those who love their blossom dirtier and more animalic. This eau de parfum favors the latter approach, and it’s unapologetic. Orange blossom and jasmine are often called upon to embellish a tuberose note, and here they are in tow – showy, slightly willful, and glamorous. We begin with a piquant pink pepper introduction, and eventually repose upon a divan of iris, musk, amber (only a touch) and benzoin. While Tuberose In Silk never quite relinquishes its charming growl, it manages to combine a silkiness. Aptly named, lovely to wear, and easy to overdose. Apply sensibly. Floris Tuberose In Silk (2020 Penny Ellis) Notes: orange blossom, camphor, iris, Indian tuberose, jasmine, pink pepper, musk, amber, benzoin

Floris London Night Scented Jasmine AI by Michelyn

Floris London Night Scented Jasmine has been around since Juan and Elizabeth Floris composed it in 1806! If Tuberose In Silk is a soiled dove – well, she’s been supplanted by this glorious diva. If memory serves (and olfactory memory can be as cagey as any other variety) the reconstruction of Night Scented Jasmine has stayed true to its predecessor. What an elaborate creature it is – a floral extravaganza. The Floris website categorizes this as Floral Green, but I think it’s in a league of its own. Floral – yes. Animalic – yes. Green – yes. Woody – yes. Mysterious – very. Fascinating as it indeed is, one would do well to apply Night Scented Jasmine with circumspection; it’s potent. If I owned a bottle, I would immediately decant the jus into a small, portable glass flacon with no atomizer. It’s easy to overpower others’ personal space if you spray with reckless abandon. Night Scented Jasmine begins companionably, with those lovely-yet-fleeting citrus notes which we all wish might linger awhile longer. No matter: neroli takes up the baton, and with it a variety of green facets in cahoots with violet leaf. It’s now time for us to face the floral barrage of primarily indolic blossoms: jasmine, narcissus, gardenia, and ylang-ylang. You might consider adding lily to this group because of its hammy aspect, or mimosa, for its furry underbelly. Only the cool iris and tender rose’s presence suggest how well they smooth out those randy flowers. Night Scented Jasmine’s base is comprised of dream notes (well, I think they are) – sandalwood, musk, vetiver, and amber. It’s listed by the brand as leaning feminine, but I’ll wager that it would be fabulous on a man. Night Scented Jasmine (2006, likely Edward Bodenham: 9^th generation of the Floris family) Notes: green notes, violet leaf, neroli, citruses and mandarin orange; jasmine, narcissus, lily, gardenia, iris, ylang-ylang, mimosa, rose, sandalwood, musk, vetiver, amber.

N.B. – The Floris London website includes locations where their products can be purchased – or one can readily obtain them (and samples) online.

Reviews based on samples which I purchased. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

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