DSH Perfumes Tournesol Noir

DSH Perfumes Tournesol Noir courtesy of the perfumer

“Keep your face to the sunshine and you cannot see the shadow. It’s what sunflowers do.” ~ Helen Keller.

Award-winning artisan perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has just released her fourth fragrance in the series entitled ‘Flowers for Men’: this time around, her offering is a floral/herbal fougère inspired by a rare floral species, the black sunflower, aka Tournesol Noir. Her very first flower for men fragrance was 2017’s Il Marinaio da Capri – an evocation of Italian summer on the Mediterranean which ensorcelled our late beloved Robert Hermann. Next in line, in 2018 – was a crepuscular lilac, Lilas de Minuit, followed by number three (in 2019): Gardénia Vitreux . Tournesol Noir is a stunning visionary reverie, and is not intended to be a literal interpretation of the flower itself. In this sense, it might be viewed as a bit of a departure from the previous perfumes in this collection. There is a decided freshness about Tournesol Noir which is appealing to any gender, but we do well to remember that (despite efforts to alter male/female preconceptions regarding scent) there are still gentlemen out there who balk at the thought of donning a fragrance which is not clearly delineated as masculine. Various cultures perceive florals in a different light, and have been traditionally more open to men delighting in/wearing them then we in the West.

DSH Perfumes Tournesol Noir courtesy of the perfumer

What do we know about the sunflower? There is actually all sorts of fascinating tidbits of lore and science surrounding the helianthus, a favorite member of the daisy family. The black sunflower occurs naturally – either by genetic mutation or cultivated through hybridization – but it is not the customary plant with which we are well-acquainted. Each ‘flower’ is, in reality, a composite of 1,000-4,000 individual florets: the tiny fertile ones in its center which become seeds, and the sterile ‘ray’ florets, viewed as outer petals that swirl in a spiral formation. Sunflowers have been proven to absorb heavy metals and environmental toxins through their roots: a process known as phytoremediation. These include arsenic, cadmium, lead and radioactive substances strontium-90 and cesium -137. This explains why sunflowers were planted after Chernobyl’s nuclear disaster in 1986.

Charles de la Fosse painting, 1688 from Château de Versailles: Clytie turned into a sunflower by Apollo free use

Perhaps the earliest known tale about sunflowers began with the Greeks and a tragic myth of unrequited love. Apollo, the sun god, was also known as Helios. He dallied with the lovely water nymph Clytie, until he tired of her (as gods will do). The abandoned Clytie was despondent and became obsessed with Helios, unwaveringly devoting all her time following his path across the sky, day after day, until she was transformed into the flower which eternally turns its face to the sun. This may account for the primary symbolism associated with the sunflower: adoration, loyalty, devotion, and longevity. Sunflowers also represent resilience (as in Ukrainian solidarity) and joy. Ancient folk legend insists that if you sleep with a sunflower under your pillow, you will be filled with genuine wisdom. The sunflower is also associated with fertility: a necklace or crown of dried sunflower heads can be worn – particularly at Litha, the Pagan/Wiccan festival which marks the summer solstice – in order to foster fertility.

 Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes

“The Tournesol Noir is the question the garden did not know it was asking: what grows in a soul that has learned to love the dark?” ~ Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Coming by specific information about the black sunflower was much more fraught. I finally came upon only one source for the more occult associations of the black sunflower – and its assertions align closely with the perfumer. This perspective was offered: that of mystery, alluring darkness, and embracing one’s inner flame. The plant’s dark raven petals suggest hidden depths, the unknown, intuition, mysticism, magic, the unfolding of spiritual truths – and the ability to reveal that which is veiled from our sight. With regard to love, the black sunflower represents deep, unconditional bonds which include the lovers’ embracing one another’s shadows and truly seeing each other – perhaps over several lifetimes. Astrologically, they connect to Leo’s radiance and Pluto’s resilience. Chakra-wise, black sunflowers stand for the first, or root chakra – and a connection to the third eye, the gateway to higher consciousness.

DSH Perfumes Tournesol Noir ideation courtesy of the brand

DSH Tournesol Noir bridges both light and darker realms. Its illuminated spirit manifests in a tonic opening: brilliant tones of bergamot, Tahitian lime, sunny verbena and clover leaf segue into a lush heart of velvety black petunia (smell them next time the opportunity arises!), and a riot of fragrant flowers: Turkish rose otto, jasmine, neroli, orris, honeyed acacia and mimosa. These are deftly seasoned with the tangy herbalcy of armoise (mugwort), lavender, and the crystalline limpidity of violet leaf; an earthy petrichor accord accompanies them. The base is verdantly woody, but never weighty, despite the potential heft of its olfactory materials: amyris, Australian sandalwood, and Virginia cedar commingle with vetiver x2 (Brazilian and ruh khus attar) and green oakmoss; ambergris and musk contribute their voices with a silky touch. Tournesol Noir wears as aromatic chiaroscuro: delightful, with just enough heft for one to take it seriously – but balanced as only Dawn can.

Notes: bergamot, Tahitian lime, verbena, armoise (mugwort), clover leaf, black petunia accord, neroli, petitgrain, Turkish rose otto, orris root, esprit de lavande, lavender absolute, mimosa, acacia, grandiflorum jasmine, violet leaf absolute,  petrichor (rain) accord, ambergris, amyris, Australian sandalwood, Brazilian vetiver co2, ruh khus, green oakmoss, musk, Virginia cedar

Sample provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…

Note: DSH Perfumes Tournesol Noir translates to Black Sunflower and is Dawn’s  Flowers for Men no.4

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Thanks to the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes, we have one 30 ml EDP flacon of Tournesol Noir for one registered reader in the continental USA. You must register. To be eligible, please leave a comment regarding what sparked your interest about Ida’s review of DSH Perfumes Tournesol Noir, your favorite DSH Perfume, and where you live in the continental USA. Draw closes 5/22/2026

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Read Michelyn’s Interview with Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes here.

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