Darren Alan Perfumes Scarab Queen

Darren Alan Perfumes Scarab Queen via the Perfumer

Each year since 2018, as ÇaFleureBon’s anniversary approaches, new fragrant Queens are crowned. For the 16th anniversary and second collaboration with artisanal perfumer Darren Alan, EIC Michelyn Camen’s desire was for a true Egyptian perfume fit for a regent: Scarab Queen, which is the collaborative labor of love. Michelyn has long been fascinated by the commanding Egyptian queens who ruled the ancient world. In order to be historically accurate, it was essential [sic] that each of the olfactive components of Darren Alan Scarab Queen be of natural origin (in oil formulation), and represent the indigenous materials which were employed by perfumers of this era. Darren Alan has achieved this brilliantly, summoning an Egyptian zeitgeist authentically, with incomparable delicacy in the process.

Hatshepsut (c. 1505–1458 BCE) was the sixth pharaoh of the 18th Dynasty and one of ancient Egypt’s most powerful rulers. via Istock

I have long pondered the significance of the appellation Queen. In ancient Egypt there was no specific, separate word for a ruling “queen.” If a woman ruled Egypt (as Hatshepsut did), she was often referred to by the male title “King”. Other terms of address for such a formidable woman included Hmt nswt wrt: Great Royal Wife (Primary Queen), or Nbt-r-Dr: Mistress of All.  Many female rulers sported a false beard – in particular, Pharoah/Queen Hatshepsut, who often donned kingly garments to connote her authority. In Old Testament days, the word queen was derived from the name Malka.

via the perfumer

With each new year, a new regal facet is revealed. Last year, for ÇaFleurebon’s 15th anniversary, Darren Alan composed Lipstick Queen with Michelyn and Nicoleta– a boudoir fragrance which celebrated the transformative quality of lipstick (and perfume). This year Scarab Queen travels back in time to the venerable Egypt of yore, when scarabs provided the talismanic divine protection which was considered essential to daily life. Their importance extended beyond the grave: scarabs were placed in Egyptian tombs to usher the spirits of the deceased into the afterlife. The scarab beetle symbolizes the god Khepri, ancient Egyptian god of the morning sun, transformation, and rebirth. He was a revered symbol, an aspect of the sun god Ra. Khepri also represented regeneration, protection, and resurrection. Because scarabs (in reality, they were dung beetles) roll balls of dung, Egyptians viewed them as analogies for the sun’s journey across the sky and, by extension, eternal life, transformation, and divine creation.

Lotus flower used in Darren Alan Perfumes Scarab Queen via Istock

Darren Alan Perfumes Scarab Queen opens with a sprightly tonicity born of juniper berry: fruity, balsamic, terpenic. This true-to-life substance is joyfully accompanied by lemongrass’ citrus/herbaceous notes, accented with camphor. Interestingly, this somewhat medicinal camphoric aroma is echoed in the base note nut grass – aka cypriol or nagarmotha, which is a remarkably complex material possessed of smoky, leather innuendo, and vetiver/ginger/cinnamon/clove facets. It is the precious blue lotus around which all components revolve – not unlike the sun. It is astounding to me that Darren somehow acquired 20 kilos of these rare blooms and created his own extraction: I believe that this speaks to his dedication and commitment to the pursuit of genuine natural olfactory beauty. I know of no other perfumer who has attempted this (perhaps they exist, but I am not familiar with them). A few decades ago, I was honored to receive a few ccs.of blue lotus absolute from perfumers known for their love of rare botanicals; it was a revelation. Unlike the more readily available (and affordable) white and pink lotus, the Nymphea caerulea is, in fact, a water lily. Its fragrant palette is intricate: a web of aromas including a waxy quality, heady floralcy with a touch of spice, and aquatic tones. Some have likened its scent to that of the cherry/almond family, with a powdery verdancy bordering on the sweetness of Parma violet. What an exquisite (and authentic) heart note for a royal perfume. Scarab Queen’s fragrant foundation is paved with beeswax absolute: remember, it was the Egyptian custom to wear perfumed wax cones upon their heads for celebratory occasions: as these melted, they released sumptuous fragrance over the head, hair, and body. Frankincense, aridly beautiful myrrh, and the sweetly balsamic/lightly floral benzoin (which contributes tenacity as a fixative as well as imparting rich spice notes) – are met with sweet flag, aka calamus, another excellent fixative which imparts a warm, earthy aroma with spicy undertones. Calamus flourishes in marshy, swampy areas – again, a native plant in ancient Egypt. There can be no question regarding Scarab Queen’s authenticity.

The Eye of Horus mathematical formula used in Darren Alan Perfumes X CaFleureBon Scarab Queen.

Darren has gone to great lengths indeed, right down to the heart of the matter: he constructed Scarab Queen’s components according to Egyptian numerology and the detailed equations of the Eye of Horus. It was the custom among Egyptian perfumers to add gemstones to their perfumes: therefore, each flacon contains a small piece of lapis lazuli, the “stone of heaven”. Lapis is not only regarded as representing royalty, it is, according to the International Gem Society – one of the first gemstones to be worn as adornment. Roman historian Pliny the Elder called it “a fragment of the starry firmament.” Lapis is believed to provide defense against the evil eye, promote deep self-knowledge and self-expression, protect peace of mind and foster well-being. Without lapis lazuli, there would be no decorated eyes of King Tutankhamen, the eyelids of Cleopatra, no ultramarine blue pigment with which to embellish the Sistine Chapel or Vermeer’s Girl With a Pearl Earring.

Darren Alan Perfumes Scarab Queen lies close to the flesh (it is an oil),and is a soothing, grounding perfume which would wear well on anyone. I have found myself reapplying it throughout the day purely for my own pleasure: an intemporal scent which will never age or lose its lustre.

Notes: juniper berry, lemongrass, camphor, blue lotus absolute, beeswax absolute, frankincense, benzoin, myrrh, sweet flag (calamus), nut grass (cypriol)

Sample kindly offered by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own.

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Thanks to the generosity of Darren Alan Perfumes, we have a 10 ml bottle of ÇaFleureBon X Darren Alan Perfumes Scarab Queen for one registered reader in the USA. You must register for your entry to be counted. To be eligible, please comment on what interested you based upon Ida’s review, and where you live in the USA. Draw closes 5/16/2026

All images courtesy of the perfumer unless noted

Read about Michelyn and Darren’s Creative Process here

Our reviews of Vintage Novel, Dust and Clay, CaFleureBon X Darren Alan Lipstick Queen, Hekate. Darren Alan is also a contributor to our in-depth essays on Perfume Notes and Ingredients: Read Narcissus in Perfumery Benzoin in Perfumery Cinnamon in Perfumery

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Darren Alan Perfumes (and Scarab Queen )are also available at Fragrance Vault

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